Aside from its being considered as the Venice of the Philippines, for year-round obvious geographical reasons, there’s this one thing that proudly carries the name Malabon.  It completes every fiesta table, every occasion.  Its rich ingredients of greens and seafood speak of the bounty available in the land known for so long as a food processing paradise. 

Pansit Malabon in itself has become a by-word in Philippine culture, and important culinary event in a bilao. While the noodles of course could be traced to the Chinese, who rightfully believes that there’s longevity in the eating of the pansit, Pansit Malabon has created a truly authentic Filipino flavor, fusing in the colors of a lively fiesta, a healthy vegetable garden, and a beating and thriving sea life, which surrounds most of the locale.      

Growing up in Malabon, I am accustomed to eating pansit Malabon in every occasion we celebrate at home. Whenever there’s a celebration, I would wake up early to fetch our order of Pansit Malabon from our suki in Niugan, Malabon. This pansit dish completes our holiday feast. It is a true family favorite. 

Moreover, to those who make pansit Malabon, this dish is not just a source of living, but also a treasured family recipe.  Two of the oldest pansit Malabon restaurants are Norma’s Pancit Luglog and restaurant in Navotas City and Rosy’s Pancit Malabon in Cuatro Cantos, Malabon. Both are family-owned restaurants, situated in each family’s residences/ancestral homes, that have been in the business for decades.

Norma’s

Norma’s Pancit Luglog and Restaurant began in the 1980’s, when it was still situated along the C4 road in Navotas. Today, Norma’s has been in its new home in Yangco St., Navotas for 20 years.  

When I went to Norma’s, I met Boying Concepcion, the owner of the restaurant. Norma was actually Boying’s sister. The restaurant was named after her because she was believed to be a good luck charm in the family. “Si Norma ang suwerte sa amin kasi siya yung pinakamasipag, pinakamabait, pinakatahimik at masinop,” Boying said. 

Then I noticed the use of Pansit Luglog in the restaurant’s name. Boying told me Pansit Luglog and Pansit Malabon are the same. “Pareho lang iyan. Noong hindi pa naghihiwalay ang Navotas at Malabon, Pansit Luglog na talaga,” he said. 

Pansit Luglog or Pansit Malabon are made of fat noodles plunged in boiling water. The term “luglog” actually meant the act of plunging the noodles using bamboo strainers. These noodle dish is topped with shrimp-achuete sauce, vegetables, boiled eggs, crushed chicharon, pork, and seafood such as shrimp, squid rings and sometimes, oysters (talaba) and smoked fish (tinapa), which are all abundant in Malabon and Navotas. Often times, Pansit Malabon is mistaken for Pansit Palabok, which uses thinner noodles. 

For Boying and his family, cooking Pansit Luglog has been a family legacy since the business was ran purely by the family. Boying, now the business caretaker, has been helping out in the business since his teenage years. “High school pa lang ako nag-aaral na ako magluto ng Pansit Luglog,” Boying said. And today, his nieces are the ones helping him cook pansit in their restaurant. 

I was served with Pansit Luglog and special puto. It was definitely a treat. Norma’s Pancit Luglog is rich with toppings of nothing but fresh ingredients--squid rings, slices of big shrimp, crunchy chicharon and pork. All of which are on top of the white al dente noodles. Boying reminded me, “haluin mong mabuti at lagyan mo ng kalamansi.” Yes, kalamansi is the secret to a more flavorful pansit meal. 

Norma’s Pancit Luglog’s secret to success must be because of Norma’s luck. Nevertheless, it is the delicious flavor of Norma’s Pancit Luglog that made it stand out all these years. “Masarap at malinamnam kasi yung pansit namin, at saka yung pakikisalamuha sa tao,” Boying said. With good food and a harmonious relationship with the customers, Norma’s Pancit Luglog kept the people coming back for more. 

As I sat with Boying behind the cashier counter, our conversation was interrupted every now and then with numerous phone calls from customers ordering bila-bilao of Pansit Luglog, and a number of dine in customers. Some chatted with Boying about his sisters. More than just customers, they are like friends to Boying’s family, as well. 

Customers are treated like family, and this is the reason they frequented Norma’s even more. “Lalong dumadami ang customers namin. Mayroong galing ng Makati, Pasig. May mga foreigners, balikbayan, artista,” Boying said. 

Manila Mayor Fred Lim, Former Senator Robert Jaworski, Congresswoman Tessie Oreta, Angelica dela Cruz, Boying mentioned proudly, are just some of the famous personalities who frequent Norma’s.

Rosy’s

Before there was Rosy’s Pancit Malabon, there was just a karinderya selling lugaw and biko. Nery Pacheco remembers the time when she and her sister Rosy were still kids and their mother was the one cooking and selling food. 

“Talagang nagluluto na nanay namin noon, eh. Nagkakarenderya siya. Maliliit pa kami noon. Nagsimula yan sa isang bangko, isang lamesa lang, at tsaka yero lang yung bubong. Madalas pa nga masagasaan yoon noong araw, dahil doon sa kanto yoon nakapwesto,” Nery said. 

Rosy was the first to learn cooking from their mother, thus, the restaurant was named after her. Rosy’s Pancit Malabon has been around since the 1970s. It’s branch along the Roxas Boulevard is now celebrating 30 years. 

The secret? Nothing but fresh and quality ingredients. “Fresh lahat ng ginagamit namin. Kaya kapag ubos na ang mga sahog, wala na talagang tinda,” Nery said. And, of course, with the whole family taking care of the business, every thing is in good hands. While Nery and her sister, Belen Pacheco, take care of the branch in Roxas Boulevard, the rest of the family together with Rosy works at their home in Malabon. “Siyempre, kapag hind kasi naasikaso, babagsak ka rin,” Nery siad. 

And until now, even the grandchildren are already taught how to prepare the ingredients for pansit Malabon. 

Rosy’s Pancit Malabon has traveled far and wide, as balikbayans crave for their favorite pansit. “Nadadala sa States, sa Guam at Singapore yan. May bumili sa amin, tapos dinala niya sa Vancouver. Sa San Francisco nakarating na rin yan. Kahit kinabukasan pa makakain pa rin yan,” Nery said. 

Rosy’s pancit Malabon has been in the business for decades, it has pleased the appetite of many customers including political figures like the former First Lady Imelda Marcos and President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo. 

“Kasi nung araw, mangangampanya sina First Lady Imelda Marcos. Dito kumakain yan, kasama mga blue ladies. Si Gloria Arroyo kapag emergency meeting umo-order yan,” Nery said. 

Nery also remembers sweet memories from the past. Instances, which proved that Rosy’s Pancit Malabon pleases the appetite of its customers. “Alam mo si Julie Yap-Daza nga eh, sabi niya, nasa eroplano pa lang daw gusto na niya kumain dito,” Nery said. “Sila Cuneta, ayaw kakain ng iba yan. Nung binyag ni Sharon sa amin nagpaluto ng pansit yan,” she added. 

This pansit dish is a true pride to Malabon. Its long-lasting delicious flavor is indeed a treasure that bears the legacy of the families who cooks it. “Kahit kainin mo yan araw-araw, di ka naman magsasawa eh. Ako nga kahapon di nakakain eh, kakain ako ulit ngayon,” Nery said. -end-